By Mukund Sathe
Diary of a cyclist – a summary of the Jim Corbett forest area cycling expedition.
Day 0: 11thFebruary, 2026 Wednesday – Arrival
This was the second forest expedition I was participating in, after the Pench Forest expedition. I arrived in Kaladhungi, where the YHAI base camp was situated. I was pleasantly surprised to find the camp located at a beautiful forest resort – Corbett Farm Yard.
Since no activities were scheduled in the evening, visited nearby Jim Corbett museum. This historic bungalow was Corbett’s home until 1947. Today, it preserves his personal belongings. It also narrates the gripping tales of his encounters with 33 man-eaters (19 tigers and 14 leopards).
Over dinner, our guide co-cyclist Mithun briefed us about the plan for next five days. Since the following morning was free, we requested to go on a Safari. Mithun made necessary arrangements and informed us to be ready at 6:30 AM
Day 1: 12thFebruary, 2026 Thursday – Nainital Road ride – 8 KM
The jungle safari was a breath of fresh air. Though the tiger managed to elude me for the third time, we saw claw marks on tree trunks and fresh paw prints in the mud. We caught a fleeting glimpse of its movement in a distance.
Post lunch, we collected cycles, rucksacks, gloves & helmets. Had couple of rides within the resort complex to check cycle fitness. Cycles were in good condition. Tiwariji, with whom I had done couple of expeditions in the past, was available for support on his scooter. His famous dialogue “aap log sunte nahi ho” was superhit amongst cyclists. Once the teething troubles were attended to by Tiwariji, we left for the acclimatization ride.
We maneuvered the cycles through the narrow passage next to a canal and reached the Nainital road. It was a small ride in the ghat section towards Nainital. We rode uphill for about 3 KM and then returned. This turned out to be our only significant ascent; the rest of the expedition was largely across flat terrain.
It was packing time post dinner. We packed our belongings in a rucksack. We had to carry our own luggage for the next two days. Such packing is always tricky. You can’t carry too much, but have to make sure that you haven’t forgotten something essential.
Day 2: 13thFebruary, 2026 Friday – Kaladhungi – Barati zarna – Teda gaon – 37 KM
After a hearty breakfast, we learned the art of securing our rucksacks to our cycles and departed around 10:00 AM. The weather was perfect.. It was a small downhill ride for 3 km till Ramnagar road junction. We turned right and after riding for a few kilometers on Ramnagar road, took exit to a smaller road. Enjoyed the nature for sometime and again joined a main road to ride a couple of kilometers. Again we detoured from the main road into the forest, eventually reaching the Barati Rau waterfall. We parked the cycles and walked a nature’s trail through dense forest. At the end, we had a mesmerizing view of 30 feet waterfall.
Noticed lot of anthills throughout our journey. They aid in soil aeration and nutrient cycling, the way nature’s balance works.
We came back to the main road and took a lunch break at Sanjhi Haveli restaurant. Post lunch was a slow ride towards Ramnagar. Crossed a bridge over Dabka river. The vast, stony riverbeds of the Dabka and Kosi rivers were a sight to behold, hinting at the powerful torrents that flow through here during the monsoon.
Took a halt for sugarcane juice at Ramnagar dam built on Kosi river. Here we left the main road and crossed a branch of Kosi river towards our destination. By 4:30 PM we reached our campsite in Teda gaon. As Mithun described them, “naam tedha hain par log bade saral hain”.
After tea, we took a stroll in nearby forest area. Villagers warned us about possible elephant movement. We also observed elephant dung which looked quite fresh. We returned after watching sunset.
Tents had temporary electricity provision for mobile charging. This was the only stay where we used our plates for dinner. All other days, dinner cutlery was available at the venue, unlike typical YHAI expeditions. At dinner had local preparation of ‘Bhatki Chutkani’ and hit the bed.
Day 3: 14thFebruary, 2026 Saturday – Teda gaon – Pawalgad – 40 KM
A morning walk to a hilltop temple offered a stunning panoramic view of the golden wheat fields of Teda village. Got ready, had breakfast, packed up the tent belongings and moved out about 10 AM.
We rode back to Ramnagar dam and moved towards Kaladhungi road. After couple of kilometers took a left turn for some scenic ride. It was a ride through forest where we spotted some deer. After a ride for half an hour, we stopped at a river side restaurant for a coffee break.
The temperature was rising. The winter effect was only in the mornings; Today it was bright and sunny. We headed toward a river crossing, debating whether to take our shoes off to keep them dry. To our amusement, the riverbed was bone-dry—it turns out we were a month too late for the ‘water crossing’ experience! 🙂 .
We rode back through the same forest area and reached the main road. An hour ride on the highway before we reached a small hotel for lunch break. Experienced puncture on the way. Tiwariji was prompt at service to replace the tube. Post lunch, took a left from Bail Parao towards Pawalgarh. By evening 4:30PM we were at our destination – Eco Harryman’s homestay. It was a tent stay in the “Amla” (Indian gooseberry) garden.
The owner Manoharsingh Manral is a nature lover and has created an ecosystem to support the nearby villages. He is a TEDx speaker and part of the state Government advisory to protect Uttarakhand nature. At the homestay there was hot water provision for bath, provided we heat the water ourselves using firewood. As the speed of heating was like ‘birbal ki khichadi’, most of us resorted to cold water bath. We had a homely dinner followed by campfire. A perfect stay for those who appreciate nature conservation.
Day 4: 15thFebruary, 2026 Sunday – Pawalgarh – Kota Bagh – Kaladhungi – 30 KM
Comfortable tent stay, pleasant morning, good breakfast and we were back on saddle. We rode off-road through Pawalgarh, cycling in a tight group for safety given the density of the forest and the risk of wildlife encounters. Many beautiful peacocks accompanied us on the way. We reached a tar road which led us to ghat section. A sweaty climb to the top and then some relaxing slope. It being Mahashivaratri, we stopped briefly to offer prayers at a Shiva temple.
From here it was a never ending uphill. The reward was a roadside dhaba serving hot Jalebis with an incredible view of the valley. Another climb and we were on the top.
It was further decent through Kota bagh town to the dense forest. A perfect photo-shoot location.
As we were very near the base camp, we skipped lunch on the way. Rode back to the base camp and had our lunch. Later we visited North India’s first iron foundry. Operational from 1858 to 1878, it was eventually closed to prevent further deforestation – a true testament to early conservation efforts.
Day 5: 16thFebruary, 2026 Monday – Kaladhungi – Barhani range Forest area – Kaladhungi – 29 KM
The final day was a relaxed exploration of the Barhani forest range. Post breakfast, unburdened by rucksacks, we rode to Ramnagar road. From Ramnagar road we took left towards Barhani forest range. Enjoyed the offroading as well as nature. Multiple breaks for photo sessions. We met some forest officials and raised slogans for saving forests as part of their campaign. We left the forest area, joined Kaladhungi road for the return journey. After a quick stop for bhutta (roasted corn) and sugarcane juice, we completed the final leg back to camp.
Five days of expedition covering about 140 km. It was one of the coolest expedition I have experienced. Get up late, ride for an hour, take break enjoying nature. Another hour ride to lunch place and another hour ride to the destination. And the day was over. Throughout the ride, there was a feel of wildlife around us, though we did not come across any. Many places there were electric fences to keep wildlife away.
As usual, it was a friendly group representing different states of India. I have observed majorly three categories of participants in YHAI events – Retired persons, Government officials and IT professionals. Thank you YHAI for another wonderful expedition !!!
Concluding lines on Jim Corbett –
ना तो खूंखार शेर की तलाश है, ना हाथी चीते की तलाश है |
साल पेड़ के पत्तों पर, सुने जंगल राह की तलाश है |
This Day in History 