By Mukund Sathe
Diary of a cyclist – a summary of the Jim Corbett forest area cycling expedition.
Day 0: 11thFebruary, 2026 Wednesday – Arrival
This was the second forest expedition I was participating in, after the Pench Forest expedition. I traveled to Kaladhungi where YHAI base camp location was marked. It was a pleasant surprise of camp being a good resort in the forest – Corbett Farm Yard.
As it was no activity day, went to nearby Jim Corbett museum. Jim Corbett stayed at this house until 1947 before he left India. The museum houses his belongings as well as shows the stories of his hunts of man-eaters. He shot 33 man-eaters – 19 tigers and 14 leopards.
On the dinner table, our guide co-cyclist Mithun briefed us about the plan for next 5 days. As there was no activity planned for next morning, we requested if we can go for Safari. Mithun got it arranged and informed us to be ready at 6:30 AM
Day 1: 12thFebruary, 2026 Thursday – Nainital Road ride – 8 KM
Jungle safari was refreshing. Spotted few deer, tiger nail marks on the bark of a tree, tiger paw prints in the mud. Got a slight glimpse of possible tiger passing at far distance. This was my third safari when tiger managed to miss me.
Post lunch, we collected cycles, rucksacks, gloves & helmets. Had couple of rides within the resort complex to check cycle fitness. Cycles were in good condition. Tiwariji, with whom I had done couple of expeditions in the past, was available for support on his rented scooter. His famous dialogue “aap log sunate nahi ho” was superhit amongst cyclists. Once the teething troubles were fixed by Tiwariji we left for the acclimatization ride.
We maneuvered the cycles through the narrow passage next to canal and reached the Nainital road. It was a small ride in the ghat section towards Nainital. We rode uphill for about about 3 KM and then returned. This was the only day when we had a climb ride. On rest of the days, it was more of a plateau ride.
It was a packing time post dinner. We were packing our belongings in the rucksack. The next two days we were to be on move and had to carry our own luggage. Such packing is always tricky. You can’t carry too much, but have to make sure that you haven’t forgotten something.
Day 2: 13thFebruary, 2026 Friday – Kaladhungi – Barati zarna – Teda gaon – 37 KM
Post breakfast, took a packed lunch and learned to tie rucksack on the cycle. It was almost 10 AM when we left the base camp. Weather was still pleasant. It was a small downhill ride for 3 km until Ramnagar road junction. We turned right and after riding for a few kilometers on Ramnagar road, took exit to a smaller road. Enjoyed the nature for sometime . Again joined a main road to ride for sometime and took another exit. Another couple of kilometers through forest and farms and we were at the Barati Rau waterfall base. We parked the cycles and walked a nature’s trail through dense forest. At the end, it was a mesmerizing view of 30 feet waterfall.
Noticed lot of anthills throughout our journey. They aid in soil aeration and nutrient cycling, the way nature’s balance works.
We came back to the main road and took a lunch break at Surabhi restaurant. Post lunch was a slow ride towards Ramnagar. Crossed a Dabka river bridge. All the rivers in the region had a wide riverbeds indicating heavy flows during monsoon season.
Took a halt for sugarcane juice at Ramnagar dam built on Kosi river. Here we left the main road and crossed a branch of Kosi river towards our destination. By 4:30 PM we had reached a campsite in Teda gaon. As Mithun described, naam tedha hain par log bahot saral hain.
After tea, we strolled in nearby forest area. Villagers warned us about possible elephant movement. We also observed elephant dung which looked quite fresh. We returned after watching sunset.
Tents had temporary electricity provision for mobile charging. This was the only stay where we used our plates for dinner unlike typical YHAI expeditions. All other days, dinner cutlery was available at the venue. Had a dinner consisting of local preparation of ‘Bhutani dal’ and hit the bed.
Day 3: 14thFebruary, 2026 Saturday – Teda gaon – Pawalgad – 40 KM
Had a morning walk to nearby temple on a small hill. It offered a pleasant view of wheat fields on Teda village. Got ready, had a breakfast, packed up the tent belongings and moved out about 10AM.
We rode back to Ramnagar dam and moved towards Kaladhungi road. After couple of kilometers took a left turn for some scenic ride. It was a ride through forest where we spotted some deer. After a ride for half an hour, we stopped at a river side restaurant for a coffee break.
The temperature was rising. The winter effect was only in the mornings; Today it was bright and sunny. We rode towards another river bed to experience river crossing through water. There were discussions about if shoes will get wet and if we should remove them. But alas.. when we reached the river bed it was completely dry. We probably were one month late for water crossing experience 🙂 .
We rode back through the same forest are and reached main road. An hour ride on the highway before we reached a small hotel for lunch break. Experienced puncture on the way. Tiwariji was prompt at service to replace the tyre. Post lunch, took a left from Bail Parao towards Pawalgarh. By evenining 4:30PM we were at our destination – Eco Harryman’s homestay. It was a tent stay in the Indian gooseberry (Amla) garden.
The owner Manoharsingh Manral is a nature lover and has created ecosystem to support nearby villages. He is a Tedex speaker and part of Government advisory to protect Uttarakhand nature. Hot water for bath was available, provided you heat the water using firewood. As the speed of heating was like ‘birbal ki khichadi’, most of us resorted to cold water bath. We had a homely dinner followed by campfire. A perfect stay for them who appreciates nature conservation.
Day 4: 15thFebruary, 2026 Sunday – Pawalgarh – Kota Bagh – Kaladhungi – 30 KM
Comfortable tent stay, refreshing morning, good breakfast and we were back on saddle. We went off-road through Pawalgarh village with peacocks moving around. As it was a dense forest, we were moving in a group to be safe. There was always risk of animal movement in these areas. We reached tar road which lead us to ghat section. A sweating climb to the top and then some relaxing slope. Prayed briefly at Shiva temple enroute, as it was Mahashivaratri day.
From here it was never ending uphill. We halted at road side dhaba for Jilebi with amazing view of valley. Another climb to the top.
It was further decent through Kota bagh town to the dense forest. A perfect photo-shoot location.
As we were very near to base camp, we skipped the lunch on the way. Rode back to base camp and had our lunch. As there were no plans for evening, we visited nearby North India’s first iron foundry. It was operational between 1858 to 1878 when Government closed it to save forests from cutting woods.
Day 5: 16thFebruary, 2026 Monday – Kaladhungi – Barhani range Forest area – Kaladhungi – 29 KM
The last day of the expedition. It was a casual ride to nowhere. Just explore the forest area. Post breakfast, we rode to Ramnagar road. We were relatively free as there was no rucksack today. From Ramnagar road we took left towards Barhani forest range. Enjoyed the offroading as well as nature. Multiple breaks for photo sessions. We met some forest officials and raised slogans for saving forests as part of their campaign. We left the forest area, joined Kaladhungi road for return journey. Had a break for bhutta and sugarcane juice. The final ride to the base camp and the curtains were down.
4 days of expedition covering about 140 km. It was one of the coolest expedition I have experienced. Get up late, ride for an hour, take break enjoying nature. Another hour rode to lunch place and another hour ride to the destination. Day is over. Throughout the ride, there was feel of wildlife around, though we did not come across any. As usual it was a group representing different states of India and all of them adjusting nature.
Thank you YHAI for another wonderful expedition !!!
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